Gold, debuts and a possible farewell: Paris Fashion Week’s Spring-Summer 2027 highlights

Paris Fashion Week’s Spring-Summer 2027 edition is in full swing, with 101 houses presenting 68 shows and 33 presentations between 28 September and 6 October. The opening days have already delivered the season’s defining moments: Jonathan Anderson’s meditative Dior show at the Tuileries, a gilded Saint Laurent spectacle shadowed by farewell rumours, and Glenn Martens’ deconstructed domesticity at Maison Margiela.

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Dior’s walnut moment at the Tuileries

Dior presented its Spring/Summer 2027 women’s show on 29 September at Le Bassin Octogonal in the Jardin des Tuileries, where 65 looks walked a white runway laid across the basin. Creative director Jonathan Anderson built the collection around the wénwán walnut — hand-rolling the nuts is a longstanding Chinese cultural tradition — printing the show notes as a calligram shaped like a walnut in English and French.

“Coming across wénwán walnuts reminded me,” Anderson said, “of how we can find knowledge and preciousness in nature.” The collection moved from transparency to opacity, with inlaid Chantilly lace, double duchess satin, silk mousseline, organza, bouclé and printed jacquard plissé, while sharp menswear-leaning jackets sat open over skirts that seemed to float. The set, produced by Bureau Betak, carried a rare afterlife: the trees will be replanted in the Jardin des Tuileries.

Saint Laurent goes for gold amid farewell rumours

On the evening of 29 September, Anthony Vaccarello unveiled a head-to-toe gold collection of slinky dresses and textured tailoring at the Trocadéro, the Eiffel Tower glittering gold behind an outdoor runway. The show marked ten years since Vaccarello’s first show for the Kering-owned label — and, Reuters reported, came amid reports he was set to step down from the role.

Charlotte Gainsbourg performed a song in a classic Saint Laurent black suit, and the front row included Blackpink singer Rosé, model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and actors Eddie Redmayne and Rami Malek. The house has not confirmed any departure, but the show notes’ cryptic line — “What departs sometimes leaves more light than what remains” — did little to quiet the speculation. Vaccarello is credited with expanding Saint Laurent’s reach; Kering said in July that the brand, whose revenues were down 6 percent last year, had returned to growth in the first half.

Margiela’s domestic deconstruction

Also on 29 September, Maison Margiela presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection — Glenn Martens’ latest for the house, shown only a week after his final collection for Diesel in Milan. The theme was domesticity and mundanity through Margiela’s signature deconstruction: a plain white dress adorned with crushed and flattened silverware, teased days earlier by a video of a silver teapot being crushed.

Laminated florals evoking 1960s and 1970s tablecloths contrasted with remarkably conventional menswear — a grey suit with no apparent interventions, blue jeans with a khaki vest — while an airbrushed owl T-shirt was reworked into oversized white T-shirt dresses for women.

New names and new beginnings

The season’s most symbolic moment may belong to South African label MaXhosa Africa, which made its first full appearance on the official Paris calendar on 28 September with 54 looks centred on African unity — knitwear produced in Johannesburg and East London, a live performance by Afro-soul musician Sjava, and eyewear by Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru made from upcycled waste.

Debuts are the week’s other currency: Drew Henry shows his first collection for Courrèges on 30 September, while Kai Nesselrath, former head of women’s wear at Saint Laurent, makes his Carven debut on 1 October. Off the runway, L’Oréal’s annual Le Défilé brought star power to the Eiffel Tower on opening night.

For context on the season’s creative stakes, see FashionWeekDaily’s read on the Vaccarello speculation. Related coverage: Watan News fashion section.

What comes next

The week builds toward its heavyweight finales: Chanel shows on 5 October, before Louis Vuitton closes the Spring-Summer 2027 fashion month on 6 October. With the Business of Fashion reporting that insiders are watching Saint Laurent and Balenciaga for signs of creative change as Kering undergoes a broad restructuring under CEO Luca de Meo, the runways of this week may decide more than next summer’s silhouettes.

Frequently asked questions

When is Paris Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2027?

The women’s Spring-Summer 2027 edition runs from 28 September to 6 October 2026, with 101 houses presenting 68 shows and 33 presentations on the official calendar.

Is Anthony Vaccarello leaving Saint Laurent?

Reuters reported that his gilded Spring-Summer 2027 show — marking ten years at the house — came amid reports he was set to step down. Neither Saint Laurent nor Kering has confirmed a departure.

What were the highlights of the opening days?

Jonathan Anderson’s walnut-themed Dior show at the Tuileries, Saint Laurent’s all-gold collection at the Trocadéro, Glenn Martens’ domestic-deconstruction collection at Maison Margiela, and MaXhosa Africa’s first appearance on the official Paris calendar.